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Sept 2010
Club Holiday Scapa Flow 2010
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Von
Reuter who?
Following
some long hard work by club committee members attracting and
training up new members to the club, the time had come to set
them a new goal and challenge. Would they be up to it? Would
they take it up?
Scapa
Flow was traditionally a destination for the experienced old
and bold of the club. However, an opportunity had arisen, because
most of the old and bold had been on a trip to Truk Lagoon
so were dived out for Scapa. Martin the Training Officer, put
out the word, and the shiny newby divers took up the challenge:-
Dive the remains of the German WW1 fleet.
It
all started on a dark morning in August at about 2:30am. The
hire minibus bumped
along the quiet country lanes on the outskirts of Salisbury
collecting the last bleary eyed stragglers. The start of
an epic 14hour drive the length of the country, to an overnight
stay in Dornoch before catching the following noon ferry
to
Orkney. Usually the bus would be stuffed to the gunnels with
twinsets, stage tins, and all sorts of technical divers toys
that big boys like to play with, this year it was looking
a bit on the light side. A mere 4 measly twinsets and half
a
dozen side slings marked us as a technically barren group,
We did our best to mask the rear windows..
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Above:-
video of entry and dive around
the WW1 German Light Cruiser the Koln, at a depth of
34 metres. Filmed on a HERO GO-PRO HD camera mounted
on my torch
handle.
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We
arrived in Stromness on Orkney to bright sunshine, slight wind
and warm weather. It looked great. We unloaded our gear at
the B&B congratulating ourselves on our fine fortune with the weather,
celebrating with a ration of one or two pints of Orkney’s
finest, ‘Scapa Special.’
We
rose early the next morning tingling with anticipation and peeled
back the curtains to invite
in the day. The rain drummed on the window like a hungry animal
trying to get in, urged on by a rattling wind. We put our enthusiasm
on
hold
whilst we consoled ourselves with a fatboy breakfast at the Millers
House. Martin gave a dive brief and paired up the newbies with
the experienced divers. Then we weathered the storm, and walked
the short
distance to the harbour where we met our Skipper and his dive boat
Triton.
Triton
was once a fishing boat, but has been converted to a dive boat
for many years, and is extremely comfortable with
excellent facilities, deck space, drying room day cabin, night
cabin and divers hoist. Dougie Fotheringhame is the Skipper,
who has been diving Scapa for many years, but this is his first
season here as a dive boat skipper. Dougie was keen to impress
us, and didn’t fail to deliver. The rain had slackened,
but not so the wind, but we headed out to the Flow to check it
out.
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Left:-
Wrecks near one of Scapa's Causeways
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Half
an hour later we were out in the flow. This was my 4th visit to
the Flow and this was the worst weather I had seen so far. Waves
and white horses criss-crossed the usually mild waters. We looked
for some sheltered water for some diving, and found the F2. (As
did about 4 other boats!) This was not surprisingly popular, and
once our turn came Dougie dropped us onto the shotline. The F2
is a WW2 German patrol boat, sunk in 18m of water. It is linked
by rope to a salvage barge that sank nearby whilst salvaging one
of the F2 guns.
We
eagerly descended the shotline to the barge in a stunning 12 metres
of visibility. I was diving with Brian
one of our new divers, and as we settled our buoyancy and swam
around the outside of the bow, I could see his look of amazement
as we interrupted a small seal swimming somersaults beneath us.
We followed a route around the barge and along the rope linking
it to the wreck of the F2. This lies on its port side with rear
section a tangled mess of wreckage. The bow section is good though,
with the bow gun still secured on the front deck, which allows
some swim throughs beneath the deck. I took Brian inside behind
the gun, and we met a beautiful blue conger eel stretching out
of a large pipe to look at us.
It
was a great start to the week, but due to today’s poor weather, we agreed to sack the rest
of the day, and Dougie agreed to give us an extra dive later on
in the week, so we headed back to Stromness, and the pleasure of
the harbour side hostelries. These were jammed with anglers from
a sea-fishing competition, wearing the traditional sowester, tweed
and wellies. “Aye, it were that big, son of Orca!” was
a typical boast, that would swell with the telling as the night
went on..
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| Left:-
a 5.9" gun on the Karlsruhe |
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The
next day the weather was better, and we headed out to dive one
of the light cruisers, the Koln. We dived it early in the morning
and
were the first out to the wreck. This morning as we went down the
shot-line the visibility was an outstanding 15+ metres, and the
site of the wreck approaching at the end of the shot was truly
awesome.
The wreck lies on its starboard side in 34 metres, and Brian and
I dropped over the hull and halfway down the deck. We headed along
towards the bow, watching another two of our divers in the distance,
giving excellent perspective to this fine wreck.
The
highlight of our week was the 3 dive day the skipper threw in
for us. It started
off with an early start, being the first dive boat to leave
harbour at 8:00 bound for Burra Sound. Conditions were perfect
with flat
calm conditions and even some sunshine. Burra Sound is one
of the entrances to the natural harbour of the flow, and during
WW2 great
efforts were made to increase the security of the Flow by
sinking blockships across such entrances, providing substantial
obstacles
to submarines. With a fierce 7 knot current and narrow slack
window, this was considered a formidable deterrent.
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The
Italian Chapel near Kirkwall, built by Italian POWs during
WW2.
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Our
next dive took place on one of the Battleships, the Crown Prinz Wilhelm.
At a depth of 34 metres it was no deeper than the cruisers,
but due to its immense size it felt like it! Due to the weight of
its guns and armour belt, when it was scuttled, it turned turtle
and came to rest upside down. Some salvage blasting has taken place
towards the stern, allowing some opportunities for wreck penetration
from the top of the wreck.
I
took Jon, one of our new divers on a hunt along the hull sternwards,
looking for a way in. We passed the
first large blast area, and reached a second damaged area,
where we could see the remains of a prop-shaft and drive gear.
Around this,
the wreckage of the hull towered in all directions, and I glimpsed
a small cave like hole about 6 meters below us. I signalled
to Jon I was going to investigate, and we dropped down and around
to the
hole.
I
leaned in and had a look with my torch, beyond was a huge cavernous
black chamber, with what looked like a small patch
of distant
blue like a window. I dropped in for a recce, to a chamber
about 4 metres high by 4 metres wide, with about a 10 metre
swim to the
hole in the outer hull I had seen as a window. It looked
safe enough so I called Jon in. We did a tour of the hole, avoiding
finning the floor, examining pipes and various old plumbing
artefacts from a buy gone age. We reached the window, and carefully
eased
ourselves through and outside the hull, back into the bluey-green
world.
Computers
were beginning to flash decompression time, so we ascended
slightly, and headed along the edge of the hull towards the
first blasted section, Looking below me I could see the edge
of the battleship dropping away into deeper water. A short
scramble through the blasted section brought us back to the
shot line, and time to return to the Triton.
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Tabarka
Blockship
About
8:40 we had reached Burra Sound to find it empty, and incredibly
still. We kitted up whilst Dougie determined the right moment
for the start of the slack window. He gave us a fine brief about
entering the water in a tight pack and descending rapidly to
the bottom at 14m, reducing any risk of being carried off the
wreck by any residual current. We were lined up ready to jump
like a stick of paras in ‘Bridge Too Far’, when Dougie
gave the green light, and in we all shuffled, negatively buoyant
and sinking like stones. Visibility was in excess of 20 metres,
and as I descended I could see the rest of the divers dropping
to the bottom. I noticed one diver had already reached it, and
appeared to be crawling through the kelp, like he was looking
for the enemy. However, Dougie had done his work well, and we
were dead on slack with no noticeable water movement. Divers
crept forward in extended line looking for the wreck, which slowly
loomed up at the end of the kelp like a small grassy knoll. As
we got closer it finally became recognisable as a wreck, and
we soon found a way into the interior.
Visibility
was stunning inside, the huge boilers and engine room being of
particular
interest, being home to a large conger, lobster and wrasse
that weren’t shy about coming out to play with the divers.
Beyond the engine room, a further huge hall festooned with large
windows,
allowed light and the current to enter the wreck. It was like
swimming through a huge aquarium, and with just us on the wreck,
we were into everything, but the 30 minute time budget the
skipper gave us soon wore thin. Slowly and reluctantly, pairs
exited
the wreck, deployed DSMBs and began ascents. We were still
bordering slack, so all made a safe ascent in a reasonable group
for the
skipper to collect. |
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| Grave
of one of Von Reuters sailors killed during the boarding of the
Margraf by Royal Marines. |
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During
our surface interval, Dougie took
us over to the barrel of butter,
a very small rock island and miniature lighthouse, with
its own colony of seals. 4 of us grabbed camera and snorkels
and
leapt
overboard into the flat mill-pond like conditions. Underwater
visibility was great, with a depth at the boat of 20 metres
we could easily
see the bottom. We swam off towards the pile of rocks in
the distance where we could see a few heads already bobbing
in the water and
looking our way. As we got closer, the seals broke into
little groups to circle each of us, then dive down through
the water
for a high speed swim past for a closer look. I climbed
onto the island
for a walk round, all the seals were in the water, with
nothing to see but a pile of rocks and dwarf lighthouse. I
watched
the seals swimming around the blind side of the other divers
where
they couldn’t be seen, but could sneak up on them,
I could almost see them laughing.
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Our
last dive of the day was a re-visit to the Karlsruhe, a German
light cruiser lying in slightly shallower water. There are a
couple of good swim throughs in this wreck, although a little
on the’ confined’ side,
they link some very pretty ‘courtyard’ areas, these
are open at the top, and rich in marine growth and fish, providing
stunning scenery. We undertook a trip from bow to stern, taking
in the 5.9” guns, the swim-throughs and an exit at the tip
of the stern. I dived with Mike on this trip, and together we made
the most of every opportunity. Mike said to me afterwards, “I
had forgotten you were into caving. You just reminded me!” Our
week in Scapa Flow, though not without incident, had been a success.
We had introduced new club members to the best diving in the UK,
in the impressive conditions that are common in Orkney. We had
sampled
Orkney hospitality, and once again had been dumbfounded by Orkney’s
slant on weather, as it rarely seemed to agree with published forecasts.
For myself, this was a bonus, as a weather check prior to leaving had
promised a dismal week with more rain than Noah could cope with, but
in fact, we had very little of this, and had even had some days of
sunshine! We said sad farewells to Orkadeans we had befriended, as
there is no ‘if’ in return but ‘when?’
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Interior
of the Italian Chapel
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